FAQ's PAGE
Click here for the Bugeye List
Galery
Click on Pic to
See All of the Tech. Pictures
Items on display for the Tech. Session (Sat. Feb. 3, 2001 10AM)
From left, APT Head, belt and dual chain cam drives, two types roller rockers, 5 Speed kit with rear main seal, Webber 45 carb with side draft manifold, 1380 Torque Plate, Competition oversize oil pan.
Click on Pic to Enlarge
7/4/00 After working hard doing a parade with the G-Kids (Scroll Down for More Sprite Pics)
Postings or Answers (Any Info Related To These Pages)
???? I've heard that performance motors need increased breathing so that no crankcase pressure develops to force oil out of the main seals. What do you use for a breather on your car?
Ans): An aftermarket fitting is sold for the mechanical fuel pump port in the left front of the engine block. Most performance motors have an elec. fuel pump which allows the use of that location for good breathing. These motors (especially with high output oil pumps) throw oil around inside everywhere. That means any location other than the front timing chain cover (if stock) has oil flying around. If you have changed to a non-stock timing chain cover you need more breathing. I made my own as shown below. Note the indirect route the air must take to get to the hose fitting. Shown is the side away from the engine that the cover goes over. The gasket in the back (showing the air hole size) mates to the engine. Note: if your engine does not have the mechanical fuel pump port, the casting is such that one can be drilled and tapped.
click to enlarge
???? I've got front clip damage. A frame piece is required and I got one in great
shape, and looks the
same except for the bonnet latch holes on the interior walls aren't there. The solution to
the missing holes would be to hinge the bonnet from the front. What do you think?
Ans): It would be OK to do replacement and you could make everything exact if you
take enough time. I'd want the car to look symetrical (my druthers). MORE IMPORTANT is to
replace as little structural "meat" as necessary. I CAUTION YOU to be very
careful about re-welding anything important on these unibodies. If so, I'd do some under
frame 1/4" steel strength struts. I have cut one of the later cars apart for use as
an engine test stand. There is not much meat to them. They count on (as do all
unibodies) the honeycomb effect of square tubes with angles and cross pieces.
Welding on such thin pieces is not very structural. It can be done, but requires much
engineering analysis. Be sure that straightening (using jacks or chains) is not an option.
If it doesn't work, you can always cut later.
??? I really like the tip forward bonnet. It appears to give great access and just
plain looks good. Was that a difficult modification? I saw on your Web Page that you
had constructed your own hinges and latches. Do you have a print of the machined pieces?
Would you release that information?
Click on Pic to
Enlarge Front Bonnet Hinge assembly. (USA side)
Ans): After market tilt hinges require drilling and would fit. I did not draw up
the ones I made due to the custom nature of the "fitment" (English for
assembly). They are only three pieces (on each side) plus bolts and spacers. (see
picture). Bolts are used for the round shaft with the head cut off and bent and flattened.
Tube (steel) and flat stock form the other half of the hinge and tube ID is same as bolt
OD (about 7/16"). Where the bolt fits the car frame (into the holes where the bumper
supports came off), it has been flattened. It also has a curve horizontal to the ground to
get the centers of these two holes to be in the center of the bolt stock. This is the
tricky part (I had a pair left over done wrong) but bolts are cheep. Existing holes in the
bonnet serve well if the flat stock holes are done right and spacers are used all round.
??? Your hood tilts forward. How do you latch it in place? Ans): With
this spring assembly: 
Click on Pic to Enlarge (to actual size)
 |
Bonnet Latch Spring in place.... This assembly (shown also above) is made from a galvanized conduit wall clip slightly bent closed and attached to a zinc plated spring. It is covered with a black plastic wiring harness cover so as not to be too obvious in the dark wheel well. The small stainless bolt is installed thru an existing hole in the bonnet (top of spring - left). You must use nuts on both inner and outer sides of the bonnet to hold it firm in the position shown. You can crank the wheels out of the way and quickly clasp the conduit clip under the floorpan lip (lower at left) then stretch the spring up until it graps the head of the stainless bolt. The position is perfect to hold the bonnet down and in against it's intended rubber stops... This eliminates drilling to install and works great even in HEAVY cornering and bumping along back country roads. It is also as quick or quicker than leather buckles to open and close. (ok, maybe not as limmey) Click on Pic to Enlarge |
??? I would like to take the disc brakes from the newer Sprite and install on the
Bugeye. I have to
research the problems involving master cylinders for the brake and the clutch. Are there
any other components that would be nice to swap? The newer Sprite looks to have all its
parts in at least a rebuildable state and could use about any of it for a good Bugeye
upgrade.
Ans): Later brakes are bolt on and you just have to be sure to replace lower
"A" arm to get the right spindle (king pin) for the disk brake setup or replace
it with the right (or possibly new one). This is the part that wears and gives poor
steering or wheel wobble or all three (he - he). Stock king pin is smaller than the disk
brake one. Master cylinder for disks is supposed to be smaller bore (gives higher pressure
- one of those hydraulic rules). The difference is not much. Setting of the push rods that
go into it is more critical since disks can lock up if not right. Click here for an
even better (big brake) setup: AutoX/AutoX.html
??? I have downloaded and printed copies of your Bugeye and they are hanging on the
office wall. I want my car to look similar upon completion. I am already dreaming about
what color the car would be and how nice it would look in the driveway.
Ans): You're on the right track with such thinking...Thank You Very Much.
E-?):Does the lowered front springs affect the front hinge
replacement, especially the nose clearance when the bonnet is open? Do you have a stop for
the forward movement of the bonnet? If so what is it?
Ans): Again, I use cables that are adjusted to produce proper tip from
existing holes in inner fender support brackets to bonnet at the headlight bolts.
E-?): Do you have some sort of hood latch? Is it accessible in case of
some sort of failure? I would hate to have the latch break and not be able to open the
hood.
Ans): Springs described above. After a long time thinking about the tie
downs, I concocted some removable springs that go from lip under wheel well behind the
rear of the front tires up to a small bolt thru a hole that is already in the bonnet where
it makes a reinforced 90 turn headed for the firewall. You see, all of my hardware has
been home manufactured to use existing holes rather than rip the body. Only exceptions are
seat belts, and roll bar (unavoidable necessities).
E-?): What size wheel and tires are on the car? Do you have any
problems with the tires rubbing the bodywork? Would you use the same tire and rim setup
again or change if you had the chance?
Ans): 13 x 5 rims, 195 60 SR 13's, yes I'm happy with that. There's a tad
of black on the front bonnet wells that I assure you is the result of EXTREME performance
cornering on less that track conditions encountered with buddies on back hill runs and
rallies. This car runs with race Mini's quite well ( a few may be rebuilding - upgrading
this winter as a result of my tail gateing both uphill and down (he he).
E-?): My engine is a 1275 and is fairly strong, so its rebuild will be
later. I am leaning towards the five-speed conversion. What do you think about that
conversion, as far as implementation and results? Was it worth it?
Ans): Absolutely! but I agonized due to the fact that a Datsun Tranny has
a reach between 2 and 3 that can only be breached with a STRONG engine (particularly on an
up hill shift). This engine, with proper (lowest) rear gear ratio diff does the job WELL!.
Conversion plate I used had to be modified to use the rear main seal kit (see Q's and A's
on my page). My plan was to use low gear ratio figuring that the 5th gear would allow a
proper top end. I was right.
E-?): Love your car. What is that paint?
Ans): Paint is signal red from British charts for 1961. It is very orange in light, red in shade. It is acrylic enamel with many hand rubbed coats of clear
E-?): I'm worried about tire size on the rear and rubbing. Any hints?
Ans): I have the 13 x 5 wheels. I had them on stock setup with exception of the panhard rod and lowering. The rod keeps the diff. from sideways drift and is highly recommended. I had 195 x 60 SR 13's on it that are pretty wide (about 7" of tread), and it did rub a little. I have installed the finned alum. drums with 3/4" added width built in (expensive). This gives back track same width as front which is good. Spacers could be used (say 1/2") but I would not recommend it unless you go to larger 7/16" lugs. Even then, you have to watch lug nut torque. Best solution is the mazda rear end conversion that if done right gives the right spacing, disk brakes, limited slip (a must) and is bullet-proof. The cost is very reasonable by comparrison to what I've spent and I don't have rear disks. Just takes serious machine work and welding, etc. I'ts what I would do again, or if I have one more bit of trouble (don't expect it since I've done everything that can be done to a stock diff.) The 1/4 elliptic spring setup is offset to one side (panhard rod can adjust that out) and I don't know how much differential drift there is without it, but a Panhard stops it. It is not hard to make one of those. Just an arm (screw adjustable length) from one side on diff. to body on the other. It has to lever at each end and must have sturdy attachments. A guy here had an outfit install an aftermarket one on his, and it tore out the metal where it attached to the body! I built mine with no trouble.
???) Hi. I think I ran into you like a year or so ago at the Palo Alto all-Brit
day. Anyway, I'm re-restoring my Bugeye and I saw on your site that you'd fitted a big
brake kit to the front of your car. I've got (I think) the same kit (W's C), but there are
clearance problems all over the place and the guys there are insultingly unhelpful. How
did you get yours to work?
Answ: Yah, I got the usual surprises and little help from Mi Ma about how they go in. The
picture on my web site with the arrows shows all the places things have to be altered (or
parts built) to make them fit. The sterring arms have to be bent or spacers made. I choose
to make spacers. Mostly you have to sneak up on it so that not too much on the car has to
be altered. Each car may be a little different (DUH). You cannot use too much spacer on
the arms or you run out of adjustment (tow in). You cannot grind too much off the parts
that hit the outer edge of the rotor and weaken them, so it's best to take all excess of
the rotors first, then try for fit (the car has to have weight and be bounced down to
compress the springs B4 you see the real fit. I made them work with pretty much shop
tools, but took it apart when I got a lathe to help with clearance by turning down the
rotors excess material. (outer edge). Been there, done it, so can help.
News Flash! 02/05/2000 Santa Cruz, CA. Dave Carnahan is the proud owner of a 1960 Bugeye project car. We ressurected it from a Morgan Hill "slumber in the grass" (since 1978). The car is delightfully original and is the perfect project car at $800. When we rolled it off my trailer, the bonnet opened reluctantly to reveal a regular annual deposit of bedding material (leaves or anything soft) for rodents that had completely filled the engine compartement up to the valve cover! I've never seen anything like it. A totally unique "before picture" for the start of a complete ground up restoration. He and his wife have done a beautiful big Healey, so I know it will turn out great.
(Pics Here!). Click on pic to enlarge, hover mouse for title.
E-?): "How does the rear main seal kit work with the 1380 at high rpm's?" - Bob
Ans): So far, no rear main seal problem - not even a weep that I can tell. The condition of line bore, the race on the crank, and "fitment" (English term) of the seal holder are a factor. I suspect that a serious leak around a stock crank could indicate a problem that needs more than addition of a "real seal". - ed.
Misc): I cannot stress the value of the limited slip diff. enough - BUT- a buddy is doing a Toyota eng with Mazda rear-end. Unless I find that he has tbl. with it, that is what I think I would do (for a rear end) if doing another. At this point, I believe I have a bullet proof diff, but I have $3500 in it's goddies alone! I think he has $500 into his and it has limited slip (as build) AND rear disks! I draw the line at this point in going away from the A series English engine - guess it's the anglo in me. That's why I still have SU's (masochistic). -ed.
E-?): If you come across a Bugeye in great condition, please try to keep me in mind. I will go anywhere in north America to buy it. - Cesar
Ans): OK, that is pretty serious. -ed.
E-?): If you have serious oil leak from rear "oil thrower" how can you tell what is the culpret? - Jonathan.
Ans): Jonathan, Oil leak from stock 'oil thrower' is from one of three things (or a little of all). 1) Alignment of tolerence between thrower and rear (surrounding) material (caps). 2) wear of crank main bearings allowing missfit (slop). 3) bad line bore of crank journals and/or bent crank allowing whip or miss-spacing. It is difficult to do a simple evaluation of any of these without machinist tools and skills. It is not considered a good idea to try the rear main seal kit as a fix without an engine rebuild to fix the above since seals will wear out due to the above very quickly. Anyone else have other opinion or ideas? -ed.(Rotary Sprite Pic- Owner Unknown). Click on pic to enlarge, hover mouse for title.
